How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

With Canon and Nikon both fighting for the entry-level market, they have both launched movie friendly DSLRs to tempt enthusiast and professional videographers. Despite the two cameras coming from different manufacturers, they have a lot in common. They are both useful upgrades to current cameras (the D5100 and the Canon T3i), and are designed to consolidate their markets by extending into movie making, which both Canon and Nikon recognize as potential areas for growth. It is clear that Nikon and Canon are treating the entry-level market as a major battleground, particularly in the USA.

The Canon T4i doesn't feel quite so robust as the D5200, but it is solid enough for day-to-day use. It is a bit bigger than the D5200 though, and so easier for anyone with average sized hands to hold. The scroll-wheel clicks reassuringly as it turns and the rear buttons are responsive. The layout at the back on the Canon T4i is well set out and has more buttons, making delving into the menu settings a lot quicker and easier. Some are multi-functional, which can take a little thought. For example, the same button that starts recording video in movie mode also enables live view in a still shooting mode. The slight downside of this is that some of the buttons are also very close together. However, the Canon T4i does have a dedicated ISO button, and quick access to white balance, drive mode, and AF settings (the D5200 doesn't have any of these). There is an IR sensor on the front of the camera, but no Fn button as there isn't really a need for it.

Both cameras have an articulated LCD screen. The Canon T4i has a noticeably higher resolution than that of the D5200. The Canon's LCD has 1040 thousand dots, while the D5200 has 921 thousand. One of the Canon T4i's best-selling points is that the LCD is a touchscreen. This makes it much easier to configure settings and, more importantly, it lets you select a focus point through live view. You can also take your picture by tapping on the location where you want the camera to focus. These are very innovative and useful features, taken from the Compact System Camera (CSC) ranges that are out now. It is great to this technology being adopted by the Canon T4i as it makes it far more useable than any other camera in its bracket.

The Canon's phase detect AutoFocus system is extremely fast. Whilst it has only 9-point Auto Focus system, against the 39-points of the D5200, it is both fast and accurate for general-purpose shooting. The Canon T4i doesn't have a dedicated AF assist light, but it can use its built-in flash in these circumstances. The T4i supports full-time autofocus in video mode, which matches the D5200 and, with Canon's STM lenses, the focussing is quiet enough for shooting video. It also has an external Mic socket. It is fair to say that the Canon Rebel T4i is probably the batter camera for shooting video. The articulated screen, full-time AutoFocus, and external Mic make it ideal for your everyday video needs.

The Nikon D5200 is a very compact camera and smaller than it's predecessor, the D5100. This could cause problems with those of us with big (average!) hands. It doesn't always feel like a proper DSLR, especially when carrying a larger lens. Although it doesn't match the build quality of the magnesium alloy D700, the toughened plastic body feels reasonably solid and sturdy. The layout at the back is easy to navigate with an array of buttons to make access to the various functions straightforward. Live view is easily accessible and video recording can be initiated with a press of a single button. It has just one control wheel which is snappy and responsive. There is an IR port on the front of the camera and also a dedicated AF assist light, which the Canon T4i doesn't have. On the right side there is a customizable Fn button which can be used to control image quality, ISO, active-D lighting, or white balance (there are no dedicated single buttons for these options). The pop-up flash automatic in green mode, meaning that the flash will pop up on its own if the camera thinks it is needed.

The LCD screen is inherited from the D5100, where it was hugely popular. Like with the canon T4i, it is very useful for shooting at different angles and is particularly useful when shooting video. The help menus are good and make the Nikon D5200 quite novice friendly. The display rotates with the camera, meaning that text on the status screen won't appear sideways when you're shooting portraits. The playback mode is quick and efficient you won't need to wait for images to load. And there is a comprehensive info screen which lets you control just about every shooting parameter that the camera has to offer. However the four-way selector is not as easy to use as the one on the Canon. The Nikon D5200 doesn't have as many external buttons as the Canon T4i, Making some of the menu choices hared to get to. The new(ish) Expeed 3 processor makes the Nikon fast and decisive in phase detect AutoFocus and extremely fast in Live View. The D5200's articulating screen comes in handy for shooting video, and Nikon have increased the number of frame rate options, introducing 60i and 50i. Like the Canon T4i, it will accept an external microphone and has full-time video AutoFocus.

At low very ISO, the Canon T4i matches the Nikon, though the D5200 is slightly better at maximum (non-expanded) ISO. Overall, the Nikon delivers slightly better image quality than the Canon. Remember, the Canon T4i also has a physically smaller sensor than the D5200. It may not seem like much, but 1.6x rather than 1.5x combined with the increased resolution puts the Nikon D5200 ahead. For more information on the sensors, take a look at the sensor scores published by DxO labs.

In short, the Canon Rebel T4i has great AutoFocus, a great articulated touchscreen and is a really superb video camera. The Nikon D5200 has excellent, fast AutoFocus, a good articulated screen, a great buffer/processor and very useful in-camera guides.

I think if you had no lens loyalty either way, the Canon T4i would be the better camera to get. The difference in image quality is hardly noticeable under normal conditions and the canon certainly matches the D5200 on the video front. Whilst both cameras are excellent in their own ways, the Nikon D5200 costs more than the small improvements over the canon T4i would warrant.

How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

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How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?
How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

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How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

How Does the Canon Rebel T4i Compare With the Nikon D5200?

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Headshots & Portrait Photography : Headshots & Portrait Photography: Turning Off the Flash

Headshots & Portrait Photography : Headshots & Portrait Photography: Turning Off the Flash

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Headshots & Portrait Photography : Headshots & Portrait Photography: Turning Off the Flash
When using digital cameras in portrait photography, remember to turn the flash on the camera off. Turn off the camera flash for portrait photography with tip...
Headshots & Portrait Photography : Headshots & Portrait Photography: Turning Off the Flash

Headshots & Portrait Photography : Headshots & Portrait Photography: Turning Off the Flash

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Equipment for Nightclub Photography

You don't need fancy, high end, expensive equipment for nightclub photography. Any decent prosumer level DSLR kit and a flashgun that's fully compatible with the camera body and supports i-TTL (Nikon) or E-TTL (Canon) modes will do.

Since all the photographs will most probably be resized for web use megapixels also don't matter. Even if you are expected to submit high resolution photos on a CD/DVD, unless they'll be used to print huge and I mean huge posters or banners, you don't really need more than 6 megapixels to get the work done. The only thing that I'd suggest to really think investing in, if you are serious about photography, is a ''fast'' lens with a fixed aperture value.

''Fast'' lens is a term usually used to describe lenses with maximum aperture value of f2.8 and below (f1.8, f1.4, f1.2). If you are still using a kit lens, take a look at the writing on it now, you will probably see something like 18-55mm, which describes the focal range covered, followed by 3.5-5.6, which means that at 18mm the maximum aperture opening of this lens is f3.5 and at 55mm the maximum aperture opening will be f5.6. Therefore, the aperture is not fixed throughout the focal length of this lens and changes as you zoom in or zoom out and can result in some inconsistency.

For instance, I use a Sigma 24-70mm 2.8, so if I set the aperture value of f2.8 it will stay at 2.8 whether I am shooting at 24 or 70mm. By now you probably understand why I started by suggesting a lens with a ''fixed'' aperture. These lenses are not cheap, but they are worth it, providing more predictable results, consistency and are generally better in terms of built and optical quality. Also, consider buying used equipment and if you are on a budget, instead of going for Nikon or Canon lenses, look for ones from other manufacturers such as Sigma, Tamron, Tokina etc. Lenses with focal lengths of 17-70 or 24-70 are in my opinion optimal choices for nightclub photography.

Now I'd like to talk about some accessories which nightclub photographers use to improve picture quality. Assuming that you already own an external flash unit, which is very important for nightclub photography, first accessory worth mentioning is a flash diffuser that attaches to the tip of the flashgun. Contrary to what many people think it doesn't really diffuse light parse, it spreads the light, producing much softer lighting as a result. They are very cheap and you can get one of eBay or Amazon. You don't really need any bulky, expensive light spheres and other bigger types of diffusers. Although, they do produce excellent results and some photographers use them for weddings and even in a studio, they are just too bulky to carry around in a nightclub and are very likely to fall off the tip of your flash gun and sooner or later someone will surely step on it.

Whilst we are on the subject of lighting, I might as well get it out of the way by suggesting that you should never point the flash directly at your subject, as it will not only make the background very dark, but also produce very harsh shadows. Instead turn the flash head up, whether you're photographing in landscape or portrait format, and bounce the light off the ceiling. As you gain more experience you will learn to read the surrounding well and sometimes even bounce the light of the walls for a different result. I will talk more about flash settings later.

Second very important accessory is a lens hood. Not only it is very important from picture quality perspective as it helps you avoid getting lens flares and produce better overall contrast in your photos, but it will also protect the front element of your lens. For instance, if you accidentally hit the lens against a wall or a bar stand, or some lady rubs her purse against it, the hood will protect the front element from getting scratched. Although, not all the kit lenses come with a hood, you can still purchase one of eBay. It'll probably either be a rubber type that pops on or a threaded one that screws into the filter thread of your lens. Both types are absolutely fine!

Next three pieces of accessory, that I'm about to mention, are in my opinion purely about personal preference. Many nightclub photographers will suggest that you use a UV filter. A UV filter is a clear piece of glass which screws onto the tip of the lens in the case of nightclub photography mainly for protection. To be honest I'm not a big fan of those, as in my opinion they limit some amount of light entering the lens, producing somewhat duller results. Of course you can use a UV filter and compensate for difference in final results by slightly changing some settings in your camera, if you want a bit more protection for your lens. In other words, it's entirely up to you if you want to use one or not. If you do decide to purchase a UV filter, I suggest you go for more expensive, pro quality filters, for the reason that cheaper filters will obviously degrade quality by causing ghosting, glares etc. There are many types of UV filters out there; they come single coated, double coated etc. Just look it up online and do some researches before you purchase one.

Another piece of equipment that I want to discuss is a vertical grip. You can purchase a vertical grip from manufacturers other than Nikon or Canon. For instance, Hahnel produces good quality grips for almost half the price and they do a great job. I've used a Hahnel grip on my Nikon D90 for about two years and sold it along with my camera in top working and cosmetic condition. Again, this accessory is all about personal preference and all it does is make it slightly easier to handle your camera when you take photos in a portrait format, as it lets you hold the camera much in a same way as you would in a landscape format. As a bonus you also get a second battery slot for a spare battery, which is helpful if you have a long night shooting. Plus you get an AA battery adapter with 6 AA batteries offers a flexible power-backup solution when you run out of power unexpectedly.

Finally, the last piece of equipment that I'll be talking about is a TTL off-camera shoe cord. This cord is the cheapest and probably one of the most reliable ways to get the flash off your camera without losing any functionality of the flashgun. Off-camera lighting is a completely different topic, but you can experiment by holding your flashgun in one hand and the camera in another and you will notice the difference in the way people are lit as you move the flashgun to the left, right or even above your camera. Alternatively, you can use wireless triggers or if you're a Nikon user most of the recent cameras support CLS (Creative Lighting System), which allows camera to act as a master unit and trigger the flash gun wirelessly even if it's not mounted on the camera body. This function works only with Nikon flashguns such as SB-600, SB-800, SB-900 etc. Earlier models don't support it. Refer to the user's manual to find out how exactly to set your camera and flash to communicate wirelessly.

Equipment for Nightclub Photography

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Equipment for Nightclub Photography

Equipment for Nightclub Photography
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Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker

Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker

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Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker
Monte Zucker teaches simple lighting patterns to make quality predictable portraits using one lighting pattern, two poses and three camera positions. He demo...
Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker

Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker

Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker



Portrait Photography For Everyone by Monte Zucker

What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

It is easier than ever before to start up a photography business. Years ago, so much equipment was needed for taking your shots and then processing them, as well as the need good size rooms for a light room, and perhaps a studio. Then an office was needed to run things from, so there's two or three rooms required to start with plus thousands in equipment. Thanks to technology, it is possible to run everything from just one or two rooms, and also perhaps using equipment you already have, so even starting a photography business from home is truly a viable option. So what do you need to start a photography business?

Here are several essentials you need to look at for starting up your photography business.

1. Decide how many rooms you need. If it's just an office, then this is much easier. If you need a studio, then perhaps you could consider converting the garage into one if you want to work from home. Be sure to check relevant council or authority regulations if you have customers coming to your home. Otherwise, it might be an idea to look at renting premises.

2. To start off with, all you really need is a good quality DSLR, lenses and flash. Any other equipment you need depending on the job you do, can easily be hired as and when.

3. A reliable powerful computer. If you are reading this, it is likely you already have one, so use it until you make some money and then invest in a dedicated computer for your business.

4. Software. Photoshop is of course the industry standard, but it isn't essential you use this software. Other software like Corel Draw, Photoshop Elements, even the free Gimp are perfectly acceptable alternatives.

5. Get yourself a website, and promote your work on it. Put your portfolio up to give people a taste of what you're about. Don't forget to put your contact details on!

6. Be sure to find out about the legal side of things, eg taxation, insurance, and so forth.

7. Passion, desire and a creative eye. But you already have these, don't you?

These are just simple tips for just getting a rudimentary business up and running, and to start bringing in some money. It is advisable that you seek professional guidance in setting your business up and there are many ways you can do this, research, reading, and your local authority may also have some start up business help and assistance scheme too.

What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

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What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips
What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

Flash Photography Techniques Portraits

What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

What Do I Need to Start a Photography Business? 7 Great Tips

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BLACK EYEWEAR - Portraits

BLACK EYEWEAR - Portraits

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BLACK EYEWEAR - Portraits
http://www.BlackEyewear.com Black Eyewear vintage style glasses and sunglasses take their inspiration from the glasses designs of the 1950s ans 1960s. Availa...
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Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

Learning from the old masters
The Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn used painting techniques suggesting ambient light rendering shadows and highlights which created the illusion of a three dimensional portrait. Filmmakers and photographers have picked up on this technique and applied it to portraiture and scene lighting.

A host of work to analyze
Examples of this can clearly be seen in Rembrandt van Rijn's work, which include his many self portraits, A Polish Nobleman, Atemisia, Portrait Of An Old Man In Red and a host of others.

Nothing without light
Once the new digital photographer has eventually got to grips with the plethora of equipment that add to the photographic experience, he or she can delve into the exiting world of portraiture and lighting. Photography does not exist without lighting. Rembrandt lighting has become infused as a lighting technique alongside broad portrait lighting, short portrait lighting, split portrait lighting and butterfly portrait lighting.

Similar Technique
Rembrandt lighting is similar to short or broad lighting where the key light is placed on the narrow or broad side of the face leaving one section of the face in shadow. Imagine your subject facing directly towards the camera with the key light placed right of the camera, more to the side of the subject and above the head. The subject turns towards the light creating a shadow on the other side of the face. The shadow can be placed on the opposite side by the subject turning away from the key light. This simple technique is enough to create some interest in the portrait and is generally a food starting point.

The essential difference
The difference between these lighting techniques and Rembrandt lighting is in the nose shadow. The key light must be placed in a critical position in relation to the subject and the camera so that the nose shadow connects with the large shadow on the same side of the face. This must result in a triangle of light under the eye, Rembrandt's signature in his portraits. The contrast created can be reduced using a fill light with the desired intensity placed on the shadow side of the face or on the camera axis towards the subject.

Dramatic results
This lighting style is linked to chiaroscuro lighting where shadow and light are used to sculpture the subject. The effect is dramatic and lends itself to rugged portraits mainly suited to men. Rembrandt implied natural ambient lighting which seemed to favor harsh sunlight or fire sourced light as used in The Night Watch painting. If extended to broader subjects showing location, the low key technique of Rembrandt and chiaroscuro produce dramatic results that have also been exploited by the film industry. This can be seen in old films like The Hunchback of Notre Dame. However, in modern photography and movies softer lighting sources are used while still maintaining the Rembrandt triangle under the eye.

Legacy
There is no doubt that Rembrandts legacy exists in the creative lighting techniques developed and employed by the modern photographer and filmmaker to create depth in these essentially flat mediums.

Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

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Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting
Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

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Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

Portrait Photography Lighting Styles - Rembrandt Lighting

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Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light

Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light

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Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light
In this episode Mark has some simple lighting tips that can help to improve your photos in different natural light situations. Sam's website: http://www.sama...
Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light

Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light

Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light



Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 46: Using Natural Light

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portrait sa ako papa. . =) permi kantahon sa ako papa Green, Green, Grass Of Home by Tom jones.
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DSLR Tips: Night Photography

DSLR Tips: Night Photography

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DSLR Tips: Night Photography
Full guide at: http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/How_to_take_photos_at_night/manual_long_exposure.shtml How to take successful photos at night, by Gordon Lai...
DSLR Tips: Night Photography

DSLR Tips: Night Photography

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DSLR Tips: Night Photography